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Nadia Albertini
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Kitmir : les broderies russes de Mademoiselle Chanel
Sophie Kurkdjian
- Gourcuff Gradenigo
- 1 Décembre 2023
- 9782353403882
L'ouvrage raconte l'histoire de l'atelier Kitmir et de la collaboration inédite entre Gabrielle Chanel et la grandeduchesse Marie de Russie, pour la création d'un atelier de broderie.
Cousine de l'empereur de Russie, Nicolas II, soeur du grandduc Dimitri, la grande-duchesse Marie Pavlovna fuit la Russie en 1918 avec son mari le prince Putyatin, trouve refuge à la cour de Roumanie, puis s'installe à Londres où elle commence ses activités de couture et de broderie. Mais c'est à Paris qu'elle s'installe définitivement en 1920.
Les émigrées russes qui manient l'aiguille depuis leur plus tendre enfance, trouvent dans l'activité de brodeuse une source de revenus qui leur permet de refaire leur vie à Paris. -
Mademoiselle Chanel's russian embroideries
Sophie Kurkdjian
- Gourcuff Gradenigo
- 12 Février 2024
- 9782353403967
Mademoiselle Chanel's «Russian» period is a celebrated episode in her remarkable story. This book explores the events surrounding a fruitful encounter between two exceptional women: Maria Pavlovna, Grand Duchess of Russia, and Gabrielle Chanel. Two women with almost nothing in common who in the 1920s found themselves united by a mutual passion: their love of embroidery. Born in Saint Petersburg in 1890, Maria Pavlovna was a cousin, niece and granddaughter of the last three Tsars of Russia. Brought up amid the opulence of the Romanov court, she fled her country after the Revolution in 1917, and with her brother Dmitri found refuge in Paris in 1921. From her encounter with Chanel, already a famous fashion designer, was to spring the Kitmir embroidery atelier, with its glorious creations inspired not only by Slav culture but also by the decorative traditions of Persia, China and India. In this sumptuously illustrated book, Nadia Albertini and Sophie Kurkdjian, historians of fashion and embroidery, introduce us to the mystery and magic of Kitmir, revealing embroidery samples preserved by Maison Hurel ever since the workshop closed in 1929, as well as the superb designs createt vby Chanel during these years, reproduced here for the first time. Offering illuminating insights that will intrigue all lovers of haute couture and anyone with an interest in fashion history, this book restores Grand Duchess Maria Pavlovna to her rightful place in the forefront of the history of fashion.
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